I’m here! I’m here! I’m here!
Kim and I recently returned from our jaunt to Panamá. I use the word “jaunt” loosely, since it was a week and for a lot of people, that’s a long time. For me, if my little two-year-old shot of love had been with, I could have easily stayed for months on end.
I’m going to have to break the Panamá posts into several, because… there are hundreds and hundreds of photos, and I’m pretty sure some of you would have a nervous breakdown over how long the posts would be if it was one big one. Right? Maybe.
The idea of going to Panamá originated sometime last year, when Sean discovered that his university offers a study abroad program for two months each summer. He made tentative plans to go, and since it was going to be the bulk of the summer, I made tentative plans to bring Jasper and go for 2-4 weeks. I have a good friend from high school who lives in Panamá, and also just a curiosity about the country. Sean’s plans fell through, but at that point I’d already been talking and thinking about it so much that I still really, really wanted to go. Then, it hit me: why not just go with Kim?
I’m writing about this on Offbeat Mama this week (Wednesday! 12PM!), but Kim and I have known each other since we were 15, and we’ve ALWAYS wanted to do something like this — or several things like this. We talked about it, planned it, and daydreamed all kinds of trips and adventures. As it seems to, life happened/happens, and we delayed, delayed, delayed. So when I was still entertaining the possibility of taking a trip, I asked her what she thought. She was most naturally down, and we booked in January or February.
I was a little nervous about traveling for a week without Jasper, but all for emotional reasons — Sean is a fantastic father, and I knew Jasper would be totally fine with him. It turns out I was correct, though I did fiercely miss my smallest sidekick.
My friend told us about
Spirit Airlines, which among other things flies to various parts of the world for way, way cheaper — ONE ticket to Panamá is around $1200 (when I checked), and we got TWO for under $1000. We had to drive to Atlanta and then fly out of Fort Lauderdale (ugh, that airport) overnight, but the colossal amount of money we saved was worth it — and saving the money was what made the trip possible.
We stayed at
Hostal Urraca, which I can’t recommend enough. We had a few mishaps in the beginning, but they make for a classic first-night-in-a-foreign-country tale now. We landed in Panamá around 2AM, and someone associated with the hostel was supposed to be there to pick us up. No one was, so after we stumbled around the airport for an hour or so with my three-year-old (as in child) level Spanish, asking to use a phone through mostly mimed actions and discovering that I couldn’t get the pay phones to work (apparently they never do), we just stood outside and… waited. One thing we quickly discovered about Panamá is that there are many cab drivers, and most of them are quite happy to pick you up and take you wherever. We were almost immediately greeted with “Taxi?” to which we smiled and said YES YES YES PLEASE OH MY GOD, and we arrived at our hostel after a harrowing taxi ride (holy shit, drivers in in Panamá are CRAZY) that included listening to a lot of Spanish hip-hop with random samples of Usher songs.
After we got there, we quickly realized by the blank look on the face of the woman greeting us that we were about to have to engage in some serious miming and grabbing for phrases and words. She didn’t speak English, I barely speak Spanish, and for some reason they had us arriving 12 hours later than we actually did — which meant no rooms. We ended up calling our friends (at 3 or 4AM), who worked it out quickly, and we shared a room with a guy who didn’t come in until 6AM and was probably quite surprised to find our sleeping selves there.
Kim had never stayed in a hostel before, which is important for the next bit — she went to shower first, and when she came back she was very cold, very sad. I was all “What’s up?” and she told me that the only shower she could find was through the kitchen, in a tiny room, and it only had cold water. I was a little surprised by this, but it was so late (early?) that I didn’t ask too many questions. Instead of navigating to the kitchen when I showered, I looked around — and lo and behold, there were three or four showers, all with very hot water, awaiting us. I’m still not exactly sure what the bathroom Kim used is for, really, but we never had to use it again.
(unless noted, most of these are Kim’s photos — she took so many, and I am so grateful! I totally zoned out.)




This hostel was BY FAR one of the coolest places I’ve ever stayed. Like I said — I’d go back in a heartbeat. Once we sorted out the initial confusion, we were instated in our rooms and free to spend the rest of our time totally happy, which we did. Everything is so incredibly BRIGHT and COLORFUL at the hostel, look:
(a few of my photos)




We went to breakfast at the grocery store Riba Smith, on Calle 45, at the advice of Johanna, who owns Hostal Urraca. It turns out it’s PERFECT for breakfast — the cafeteria is jammed with food and all kinds of interesting people. Kim and I are both bit people watchers, so we reveled in it. We also kept a good disposition about not speaking the language — we both wish we knew more Spanish, but it’s also totally surprising how nice people can be about it.
Speaking of, something I really loved about this trip was, for lack of better words, “being on the other side.” As a white American, I don’t experience “otherness” nearly as much as other people of other ethnicities or nationalities. When Sean and I went to India we didn’t have a lot of this — there were people who wanted to touch my skin, hair, and eyes, but when it came to language nearly all of the people we met were excited to speak English with us. I didn’t expect this in Panamá at ALL, but there’s also no real way to prepare yourself for suddenly wearing the other shoe — you go from living where everyone can understand you to where you can’t understand anyone around you. A lot of people in Panamá speak English, but there’s no real reason for them to do so unless you’re engaging in lengthy discussion. After a day or two, it was actually almost nice to sink into a place where I wasn’t totally sure what was going on — mostly. It was also challenging. In short, it was an experience that I wish many people in the United States, particularly those who live in the south like I do, could have — I think it would allow for a lot more empathy for people from other countries who are trying to learn English. I often found that an hour or two after I tried talking with someone I could kind of work out what they were saying, but when they were in front of me, even if they were smiling and trying to speak slowly, I was gripped with a sensation of “OH MY GOD I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IS GOING ON” that totally thwarted any attempts I could make at trying to effectively communicate.
Moving on!
We met up with our friends, which was a very delightful reunion with my friend from school, who I hadn’t seen in five years, and introduction to his family. We stayed in their house for a while, talking and deciding what to do, and then he took Kim and I down to Casco Viejo while he worked.
(photos by Kim)













After our adventures around Casco, we returned back to the hostel to play with another new friend:


SO! I believe we ate dinner at Madame Chang that night, which you should also check out should you find yourself in the neighborhood.